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how to make a diy awesome heated vest-Breitex-img

how to make a diy awesome heated vest!

by:Breitex      2020-06-20
Occasionally, you venture into the world in a jacket that is not warm enough --
Or a sweater that doesn\'t fit well.
DIY awesome heated vests can be used as both a jacket liner and a stylish outdoor vest to solve this problem.
This note comes from several questions that have been floating in my mind for a while: How did Mela work as a textile and how did Mela interact with artificial heat and body temperature?
The answer is that it works really well!
DIY awesome heating vests can be achieved using a portable mobile phone charger, a cheap heating element available online.
The supplies you need are: sewing supplies: straight sewing machine, flat sewing needle, single hand sewing needle thread polyester or extra thread shaft for adhesive nylon and cotton thread ** most of the above can be converted to * measurement and cutting: scissors cutting pad (
Mylar material optional-
But very recommended)
Poster Board favorite sweater 1 fabric marking or tracking tool (
I use sharpie as visibility, but keep in mind that ink can penetrate on lighter fabrics)Materials: (
The link below is not a member link)1.
5 metres of canvas
I purchased mine from here: quilting material 1 Mela blanket of rice can be found in any outdoor shop
I purchased mine from here: you can buy it here in the US or Canada: step: if there are not 8 copper tongs with metal cutters, you can use a hole hammer or a normal hammer
Used with rivets)
The iron hammer of the jeweler or the dense hard surface (
Used with rivets)
This step uses: your favorite sweater, ruler, scissors and poster board. Back Panel:-
Find your favorite sweater and lay it flat on the poster board with the back facing down. -
Before you reach your underarm, leave clean marks around your torso with a ruler.
Fold the sleeves along the seam and follow the curve until you reach the shoulder. -
Repeat the process along the back of the neck line until you reach another seam on the shoulder. -
Repeat this process for another shoulder/armpit. Front Panels:-
To create a front panel pattern, fold the sweater in half and repeat the above process. from above.
Note: There is only one trace of folding, because this piece can be simply flipped when traced to the fabric. Battery pocket :-
Create a square of 6 inch by 6 inch on the poster board outside the pocket :-
Upper edge: 2 inch, inner long edge: 10 inch, lower edge: 6 inch, outer edge: 4 inch-
Draw a diagonal line from the outer edge to the upper edge to close the pocket pattern. -
Cut all the above.
At the end of this step you will have: 1 X front panel pattern (
For left and right panel)
1 X rear panel pattern n1 X inner pocket pattern n1 X outer pocket pattern n this step is used: vest and pocket pattern, scissors, sharp, canvas, mai la and quilting lining. Canvas:-
First, track the pattern of the front and rear vest panel onto the canvas. -
On another free canvas, track two front pocket patterns and one inner pocket. -
For the left and right panels, create the other side by following one side and then flipping it, using the front panel twice. -
Cut all the pieces and leave about 1/2 in the perimeter of the trail. Quilted Liner:-
Track the back and front panels onto the quilting liner and remember: for the left and right panels, remember to track once and then flip the panel pattern to create the opposite side. -
Cut all the pieces and leave about 1/2 in the perimeter of the trail.
Mylar: Note: This material is hard to cut.
Scissors will work, but rolling the tool will increase the speed and accuracy of the cut. -
Track the front and back panels to mylar and repeat the \"flip left and right\" front panel method in the previous step. -
Cut this shape, but this time, enlarge it a bit.
Since the material is not easy to puncture, you will not use a sewing machine to connect it.
At the end of this step you will have: 1 X canvas back panel, 1 X quilting back panel, 1 X pull back panel, 1 X canvas left panel, 1 X quilting left panel, 1 X Mylar left panel 1 X canvas right panel 1 X quilting right panel 1 X Mylar right panel 1 X canvas left pocket 1 X canvas right pocket 1 X inner pocket hard surface or jeweler hammer, canvas case, canvas pocket, iron, sewing machine, copper rivets, punching, Ball Head (or regular)
Hammer and pliers with cutting machine.
Canvas panel and canvas pocket :-
Clean all canvas panels and pockets. -
Fold all pocket pieces (
Inner pocket included)
Press again along the outline.
This should hide the rows in the trace.
Remember: We gave an extra £ 1/2 on each piece. -
Put the inner pocket aside. -
Nail the front pocket to the respective panel. -
Sew the diagonal.
Make sure the folded material is stitched to the panel as well.
Quilting padded panel (
Battery can be installed)
Canvas battery pocket-
Secure the inner pocket on the desired quilting pad panel.
Keep the top open.
Make sure the folded material is stitched to the panel as well.
Canvas and copper rivets :-
For this step, put the front canvas vest panel side
This is also true for quilting padded pieces with pockets. -
Use leather punch, punch in the corner of the pocket, which will get a lot of use. ***(
Think of the front denim pocket)-
Pass the rivets through the punch from the inside to the outside so that they can reach out from the front of the part. -
Place washing machine (
Part of the rivet kit)on the top. -
If the washing machine does not slide down the base, place the pliers on the washing machine and tap gently until the washing machine is fixed on the base as an installation tool.
Use a hard surface if needed. -
The order of materials should appear in this order: rivet base, material (
Front canvas or quilting liner)
Panel, canvas pocket, rivet washer. -
Left 1-trim rivets
Pliers 2mm using a strip cutting machine. -
Use a hard surface or a jeweler iron hammer to tap the area that cuts the copper and wrap it around the washing machine.
Do not hammer directly.
The technique here is slow and stable.
At the end of this step you will have: 2 X canvas outer board with reinforced pocket 1 X with quilting liner with inner facing pocket. This step is used: canvas panel, quilting padded polyester and bonded nylon thread, thread shaft, quilting pin, universal sewing needle.
This step is basically to create two separate vests.
Quilting lining and canvas will be stitched from inside to outside.
I use heavier thread and a needle on my sewing machine.
It\'s also a good time to determine where you intend to place the heating pad in a future step scanvas vest :-
Nail the panels together as if to get the canvas shell out of the inside.
The arm hole and bottom are not fixed.
They were not sewn up at this step. -
Stitch to the shoulder along the tracing line on both sides of the neck.
Remember: don\'t sew holes in your arms. -
Stitch from the lower arm to the opening of the waist. -
Leave the vest in the quilting lining :-
Fix the panels together so that the sides of the fabric facing the inside are hidden when worn out.
Arm holes are not fixed.
They were not sewn up at this step. -
Stitch to the shoulder along the tracing line on both sides of the neck.
Remember: don\'t sew holes in your arms. -
Side, stitch down from the lower arm to the opening of the waist.
If you use a heating pad, leave an opening about 2 inch long next to the inside pocket.
The power cord from the heating pad will be fed into the internal pocket.
At the end of this step you will have: 1 X canvas case 1 X quilting liner. Use in this step: quilting padded panel piece, pull panel piece, heating pad piece, manual
Quilting pad and heating pad :*(
Skip this step if you do not use a heating pad)-
On the inner and outer quilting liner, power the heating pad through the 2 inch opening left in the previous step. -
Leave enough gaps for the cable and place them in the inner bag. -
On the heating pads I use, they have enough peripheral material to allow needle and wire penetration without compromising the electronics.
Nail the corners and tie each corner. -
I put the heating pads there so they align with my outer pocket and can be used as a hand warmer if needed. -
Since the quilting liner is made up of several layers, I chose to sew it only on the top floor. -
Enter the power button and USB cable and stitch the closed 2 inch opening around the wire.
Quilting padding and Mera :-
Align mylar with the corresponding vest pieces and sew around only through the top floor. ***(
Please keep in mind that this material is deliberately small and therefore does not have to interact with the sewing machine. )
At the end of this step you should have: 1 X finish quilting linerCongrats!
You are ready to put everything together!
This step is used: finished canvas case, finished quilting liner, sewing machine, hand sewing needle, quilting pin * This step is the most important and critical step in the instruction manual.
I have created a model and drawn lines/arrows that indicate certain directions and steps.
The purpose here is to sew the dark side of the quilting liner and the lateral side of the canvas shell so that the vest needs to be turned out from the inside to reveal the pocket for external and internal battery brackets.
Think about sewing the bag together, passing the material through the remaining openings, and hiding the stitches.
Quilting padded and canvas coat :-
Use a canvas coat and quilting liner to turn them out of the inside so that they don\'t end up
Visible sides of the vest outward. -
Flip the panel and stitch the dark quilting liner to the housing.
Start at the bottom of the back and reach the bottom of the vest from the seam of the arm pit. -
Move from the back to the neck line.
See the red arrow on the model in the first picture and repeat it at the neckline to another panel.
Continue down until you reach the mirror side of the start position. -
Do not stitch together the back, arm holes or shoulders at the bottom. -
By extending up from the bottom and passing the neck, turn the right side of the vest out.
Vest on the right side :-
Reach out and wear a vest and push the corner out. -
The opening material at the arm hole is plugged in and fixed. -
Fold and secure the material of the bottom opening inward. -
Sew these three openings.
This will leave exposed seams, but it will look clean as the edges are hidden.
At the end of this step you should have: 1 X awesome DIY heated vest!
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