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Laser Spiked Jacket

by:Breitex      2020-06-19
After seeing the laser jacket design of Wei eh stone, I want to create it myself.
These instructions show how to modify the housing to add laser diodes and electronically control them to produce different laser patterns.
The laser diode gives the jacket a \"pointed\" look, like a metal spike, but with a red laser.
This effect is particularly significant in environments with fog or smoke, as the laser path shows a trajectory from its source.
The concept and execution are relatively simple, but care must be taken to ensure that the electronics, wiring and other aspects of the jacket do not fail when used.
Many of the subtleties and complications of the project lie in providing proper cabling and ensuring that strain relief is provided for electronics and connections in order to be resilient under normal wear and tear.
Assuming the basic components are available (
Soldering iron, Multimeter, wire stripping machine, laser cutting machine, etc. )
I estimate the raw material value of this project is about $300 and the labor time is about 20 hours.
Below is the way I create the jacket you see here, the design, sourcing and implementation need to be improved.
Depending on the battery used, the jacket can work for about an hour or two in a row.
The spare battery can be carried with you, if needed, to replace the depleted battery.
Note: Amazon usually offers faster shipping than EBay, but usually at 2-
10 times the cost.
I found that the quality of the items I ordered on Amazon and EBay varies very little.
I prefer my own connector, but you can buy pre-if you don\'t mind paying a little more-
Curl connector.
I also like the reclining female connector, although a good combination of straight line and tilt offers more options.
The basic design is to connect 128 laser diodes to the arms, shoulders and upper back of the \"motorcycle\" housing and provide power and control for laser diodes with electronic equipment.
The electronics are put into the housing, and all the wires, electronics and their housing are hidden in the interface between the housing and the lining.
Use the joystick and microphone when entering.
The power supply is provided by the LiPo rechargeable battery.
In the schematic diagram above, a LEDs are used instead of a laser diode.
The laser diode module has its own internal circuit, so there is no need for a current limiting resistor like the LED usually does.
The basic components are: the basic workflow is roughly as follows: the laser diode is connected to the outside of the shell by laser cutting the \"shell.
Each laser diode housing is a bunch of laser cut acrylic resin that is installed with M2 screws.
The base of the shell is placed under the outer shell of the coat, providing support for the laser diode and relief for the laser diode wire.
After testing each laser diode to make sure they work, weld a male JST 1.
25mm 2pin head at both ends of the laser diode.
I found the best result by cutting the edge of the wire, stripping the wire, then packing and welding the wire.
As far as possible, I try to make a \"informant Shard\" when connecting the wire to make sure there is a good connection.
Make sure to open the Heat Shrink tube before welding.
Before welding, apply a healthy flux to ensure that the welding effect is good.
Once the wires are welded together, open the Heat Shrink tube and heat it with a heat gun for a good fit.
Please be careful when shielding the end of the laser diode and JST connector with a hot gun.
I am having problems with the incorrect installation of the connector and I believe it is sloppy that I have not protected the laser diode JST connector from heat.
Laser diodes are also sensitive to extreme temperatures and may fail due to excess heat applied to it.
If there are any exposed wires, cover them with tape.
If the Heat Shrink tube is loose for some reason, you can place another larger heat shrink tube around both and shrink to fit.
When dealing with laser diodes, be gentle because the wires connected to the laser are easy to fall off.
This is done for each of the 128 laser diodes.
Test the laser diode as much as possible after connecting the cable.
This may mean making a test cable to test each laser diode.
Cut the laser diode housing using a laser cutting machine.
I used 1/16 black acrylic.
The effective working area of my laser cutting machine is 8 \"x 12\", allowing a piece of black acrylic resin to cut about 20 laser diode shells in each run.
While it may be obvious for people who use laser cutting machines more than I do, be sure to take off the paper protection of acrylic sheets.
Acrylic cutting is clean and usually does not create a flame, so any paper protection is unnecessary.
Leaving the paper on it also causes work to catch fire.
I found that my laser cutter had only about 30 minutes of operation before the water cooling became too hot and the laser cutter could not work properly.
This depends to a large extent on the type of laser cutting machine and cooling system installed, but this is something that needs attention.
After the house was cut, I found it necessary to remove the smaller interior parts with a small pick.
To make it easy to assemble later, I like to prepare the acrylic sheets in groups with the outside, inside or back liner.
After both the connected laser diode and the laser diode housing are cut by the laser, it is time to assemble the laser diode in the housing.
This will not be the complete case, because there is a final back plate that will not be put on until the laser diode is connected to the case, but most laser diode components are a step to complete in this case.
Prepare 128 cable laser diodes as well as a bunch of acrylic outer shell and M2 25mm screws and nuts.
Put each laser diode into the assembled Laser housing one by one.
I found that the best way to do this would be to pass two M2 screws through the shell plate at the top and then add six intermediate plates step by step.
I tried to put the two M2 screws in the position of a rectangular slot perpendicular to the middle stacked plate.
Make sure the rectangular slot is aligned when stacking the middle plate.
I put each laser diode through a bottom plate.
The purpose of this is to provide strain elimination for the wire so that a moderate force does not disconnect the welded wire from the laser diode.
Once the laser diode goes through the bottom plate, I position the laser diode on the stack.
Once the laser diode is installed in the laser diode housing stack, I insert the third M2 screw and install a nut on each of the three M2 screws.
The idea is to screw the bottom plate tight enough to keep the laser diode cable in place and reduce any pressure from the wire.
It is not ideal to use acrylic acid for Shell and strain elimination because acrylic acid is very brittle and easy to crack.
I find that the bottom plate often breaks when the nut is screwed in place.
As long as the acrylic bottom plate provides strain relief, the shell is still working even if it breaks.
While fragile acrylic and potential cracking are not ideal, I find it effective enough.
Any future iteration of this project should provide a better solution to accommodate laser diodes.
Once 128 laser diodes are put into the housing, it is time to attach them to the housing.
First, open the jacket liner and enter the inner jacket shell.
It is best to keep as many linings as possible intact, as when wearing a jacket, the liner provides a shield against the skin cable, and also provides a convenient place to take the electronics from sight.
I found it best to remove the stitches from the middle back.
The opening can be turned off later with a snapshot or Velcro.
First mark a pattern on the outside of the housing to determine the placement position of each laser diode.
I originally made it with tape.
After placing the first few lines, I found that the tape is basically unnecessary because it is easy to judge the placement position of the laser diode with the eyes.
Using the middle plate of the laser housing as a guide, four holes are poked in each laser diode in the housing.
The external three holes are used for the M2 screw to secure the housing in place, and the center hole is used for laser diode wiring.
I use antique nutcracker, but any sharp object creates holes in the jacket.
The center hole of the cable needs to be larger than the rest of JST 1.
The 25mm male head is larger than the M2 screw.
I found that it worked well to expand the hole with a pair of needle nose tongs.
Once the cable of the laser diode housing and the three M2 screws go through the hole, it is necessary to access the inside of the jacket housing, attach the middle housing plate to the M2 screw now stretched out.
For the first few rows of laser diodes, the jacket arm may need to turn from inside to outside, but as the laser diode is further attached to the arm, without completely turning the arm inward, it is possible to reach them.
When turning the arm outward, be careful not to damage the laser diode.
The laser diode in the Shell should have medium elasticity (
After all, this is one of the reasons why they were designed)
But it\'s better to be as careful as possible.
When the current side is accessed, a center laser housing plate is placed at the bottom, and the M2 screw is fed into the center through three holes and laser diode cables.
Screw the plate with three M2 screws.
If possible, test each laser diode once all the laser diodes are connected to make sure they are still working properly.
Early testing in this process helps to troubleshoot potential problems.
Engineering and electronics are often difficult to do, and when electronic components that bend, collide, move, and bend are added to the garment, this makes it more likely that failure will occur.
Taking into account the number of components involved in the project, failure can be expected, so make sure there are several additional laser diodes on hand so that the laser diodes can be replaced when a fault is detected.
Understanding component failures is part of the process, and don\'t become negative when things break or don\'t work initially.
By testing and making sure there are replacement parts at hand, the fault can be expected, planned and compensated.
Once all the laser diodes are connected together, we have some reasonable expectations for their functionality, and it is time to continue to create electronic devices that drive the laser diodes.
The electronic device is a pair of PCA9685 PWM controllers controlled by the Arduino Nano.
The microphone is connected to the Nano to allow ambient sound input, such as music, and a joystick with buttons is provided for some controls.
The joystick button is used to control the \"mode\" of the jacket display \".
At present, there are three modes: the laser diode is \"Battery elimination circuit\" by 5 v 3A \"(BEC).
All the logic on the Arduino Nano and peripherals is powered by a 5 v step-down converter.
The BEC and buck converters are powered by LiPo 2 s batteries.
The battery has accessories for 3A fuses and power switches.
As mentioned above, fuses are a safety precaution to ensure that any accidental short circuit does not cause catastrophic and potentially dangerous failures.
A power switch is provided for ease of use.
For safety and convenience, a cable was created and connected for the 2 s LiPo battery.
Sometimes it is easy to accidentally cause short circuit when welding or prototyping.
If there is no short circuit to the fuse consistent with the LiPo battery, it is usually possible for the battery to push 25A up through the connection.
In prototyping, I accidentally made a short wire, one of which was heated and exploded, causing the wire shield to catch fire.
I don\'t have a fire or explosion after the fuse is in place, so I strongly recommend putting this safety feature in.
I have found a 20 ad hoc workgroup fuse holder with good wire size.
To connect to other cables, the larger meter becomes clumsy.
Weld one end of the 20 ad hoc working group fuse holder to the positive lead of the female XT30 connector.
Consistent with the fuse holder, at the end of the battery that is not connected, weld the power switch wire.
For both cases, be sure to open the Heat Shrink tube before welding.
For all the connected lines, I think the informant connector is a good technology worth working on.
When the wires are wrapped together well, add flux drops and weld them together.
Once welded, give the wires a decent yank to make sure they are well connected.
Once the wires are firmly connected, feed the heat shrink tubes to them and shrink the pipes on the welded joints using a heat gun.
If you don\'t have any heat shrink tube or forget to put it on, wrap the exposed solder joints with tape to make sure it is isolated.
I put tape on the bottom of the toggle switch to make sure to cover any exposed leads.
Connect another lead to the negative end of the XT30 connector to make sure it matches the length of the fuse, toggle and end connector.
Create 2 wire end connectors with JST 2. 5mm male end.
I have found a 24 ad hoc working group to twist the wires, which is a good option.
As before, I believe to attach JST 2.
It is better to connect the 5mm male head 2 wire connector to the battery wiring with the informant connector.
Once the wires are spliced together, add a drop of flux and weld them together to make sure the heat pipe is turned on before welding.
Give a yank to connect to make sure the connection is good, re-
Welding if necessary.
After welding the connector, move the heat pipe to the exposed joint and shrink the heat pipe in place using a heat gun.
I found the cables a bit loose, so I put a few cable ties and kept them as clean and independent as possible.
Make sure to put the 3A fuse in the fuse holder.
Connect the battery to the power cord.
We will now build a Breakthrough board for power regulators.
I haven\'t measured it, but I suspect the laser diode can draw 5 mA each (
This is their rating)
Make the whole system draw ~.
75A as the upper limit.
Since the power consumption of the laser diode is significant compared to the power consumption of other electronic devices and is highly variable, A separate regulator has been used to ensure that the laser diode power and electronic power are isolated as much as possible.
Without this isolation, Arduino may become strange and other input devices may not function correctly due to noise from the circuit.
The splitter diverts the power supply from the batter to the 5 v step-down converter and the 5 v 3A BEC.
The 5 v step-down converter powers the Arduino Nano and other logic circuits.
5 V 3A BEC supplies power to the laser diode.
Sometimes regulators fail, so it\'s good to have them swap as much as possible.
For a 5 v buck converter, weld four 2-
Pin head in the appropriate position.
For BEC, cut off both ends and re-attach two 2-pin JST 2.
5mm male head, the notch side is visible if you look at the title, make sure the front lead is on the left side of the title.
Weld two 6x1 parents to the prototype board.
Make the vertical spacing of the head match the height of the buck converter.
The head will provide seating for the buck converter. Solder five 2-
Pin the female head on the motherboard, one on the top for battery power, three on the right for power to BEC, and one on the left for the output of the 5 v regulator.
Two of the three-
The pin master on the right is used for the input and output of BEC. The last 2-
The pin female head is used for the output of BEC that supplies power to the laser diode.
Use the connecting line to ensure that all power supplies are routed to the appropriate location.
The Arduino Nano provides the primary processing intelligence for receiving input from the microphone and joystick and communicating with the PWM driver.
The basic layout of the circuit is to break through the appropriate pins, route to the I2C line of the PWM controller, read the input line of the joystick and Button, the input line of the microphone and the power route, used in various parts of the breakthrough that requires it.
The only additional component is the 10 k resistor to ensure that the button line height on the joystick is floating.
When welding, make sure to use flux as it helps to weld the flow and prevent cold joints.
Generally speaking, it is a good idea to test continuity with a multimeter.
As a basic precaution, ensure that the power supply and grounding are isolated by confirming that there is no continuity between them.
After the welding is completed, clean the bottom by removing any excess wiring.
Once the break is ready, put two 1x15 header lines into the female header.
Pass the Arduino Nano through the short end of the 1x15 head, apply flux to the Arduino Nano and solder the joint.
Place the male header in the female header and make sure it is aligned correctly.
Once the head of the Arduino Nano is welded and placed on the breakout board, we can program it.
Connect the Arduino Nano to your computer using a USB cable and start the Arduino IDE.
If not already installed, install the Adafruit PWM Library and the Fourier transform ffft Library.
If these libraries are not available through the IDE, download the zip of each library and place them in the Arduino library directory.
For more information, see Arduino reference on the library.
The Adafruit PWM servo drive is used to communicate with the PCA9685 PWM driver.
Use the ffft library in the Piccolo music visualization project of Adafruit to provide a graphic EQ.
There are many preparations for the Piccolo project.
Set values to make sure the graphic EQ is visually interesting, so this is a great starting point for analyzing microphone data and doing visualization. The laser-
The Spike program has a debug flag that can be created for debugging purposes to view the serial output.
Later on, when the breakout board of the laser diode is created, we will test to make sure things look good.
If things don\'t go smoothly for some reason, undebugging the comment of the keyword can help track where the error occurred.
Instead of welding directly to the motherboard, the PCA9685 PWM controller is installed on the title.
The laser diode is not driven directly by a PWM controller, but by a 2n2222 transistor whose gate is connected to the PWM controller output.
Each PCA9685 PWM controller has its own prototypeboard.
Each line in the PCA9685 PWM controller inputs the gate of the 2n2222 transistor.
The transistor then supplies power to the laser diode.
There are 16 lines in each PCA9685 PWM controller, so 16 2n2222 transistors are required.
The line from the 2n2222 transistor is used to power the laser diode through the female JST 2. 5mm connector.
The laser diode power of the board is powered by a 5 v 3A BEC output.
The logic circuit of the PWM controller is powered by a 5 v step-down converter but is powered by a 6-
Pin connector for its I2C connection.
There are two PWM controllers, each with its own prototypeboard.
The Arduino Nano breakout and the power regulator breakout will accommodate a PWM controller.
The other PWM controller will be placed on its own shell and eventually on the other side of the jacket.
Each PWM controller is located on both sides of the housing in order to better access the laser diodes they will drive.
Each PWM controller is responsible for controlling 64 laser diodes.
Since there are only 16 lines per output line of the PCA9685 PWM controller, each output line provides power for 4 sets of laser diodes (16 * 4 = 64).
Two PCA9685 PWM controllers control 64 laser diodes, driving a total of 128 laser diodes per laser diode.
It is worth noting that even with large prototypes
The PWM controller is located on a board and space is still to be considered for wiring.
I found using the top and bottom of the prototype
The circuit board helps to control wire management.
The way I connect the control line from the PWM controller output to the transistor means that the welding point of the wire will fall in the middle of the other lines above the wire.
To ensure that the welding does not damage the wire, I found that the staggered welding, first only do one side of the top and bottom wires, and then further down the development, a better way than to weld the complete top or bottom at one time.
Since there are two PCA9685 PWM controllers that communicate with the Arduino Nano, they need to have a separate address because they share the communication line (
Also known as \"bus \").
Only on one of the PCA9685 PWM controllers, the connection \"address\" breaks through the low position on the pad.
For a single PCA9685 PWM controller, this will change its address to 0X41 (
From the default 0x40)
Arduino Nano can solve this problem independently.
Each welding head on two PCA9685 PWM controllers.
Since we are only interested in the PWM output, only one line of 1x4 heads is welded in the four PWM output groups on each PWM controller.
The PCA9685 PWM controller will be installed on the packet board in this way.
I found that using the same trick, putting the heads in the female heads they will eventually live in helps to keep their straight lines when welding. I use a JST 2.
5mm, directional and locked 6-pin female connectors on both sides of the PCA9685 module.
To keep the cable ordered the same, a female joint was welded on the top and bottom of the PCA9685 module.
After the joint is connected, two 6-wire cables are created, one of which is about 20 cm in length and the other is about 75 cm in length.
I used an object oriented locking JST 2.
6-pin connector 5mm.
Make sure the Arduino Nano cable breaks through to the right wire order on the PCA9685 module.
If, for some reason, the direction is reversed or confused
Order cable cabling to accommodate.
I like to use the cable guard for long cables to prevent them from winding.
I also tried using cables of different colors to differentiate their functionality and it was easier to determine if there was a cable sorting mismatch.
The laser diodes are divided into four lines to power and control from a single PWM driver.
The cable for this is JST 2.
A head of 5mm heads is divided into 4 JST 1.
25mm female heads
As far as possible, I try to use the informant connector and cover each connection with a heat shrink tube.
If the Heat Shrink tube is not available or is not put on before welding, electrical tape can be used.
The length of each wire should be measured as the approximate length of the four laser diode packets on the electronic housing.
This means that the wire of the laser diode at the end of the arm should be more than the shoulder or back minister.
To prevent winding, each wire is put into the cable sleeve.
I found that the 1/4 weave sleeve works very well.
To help get the sleeve line through the arm and middle interface between the housing sheath and the lining, I connected the cable clamp and closed it with the cable
Tie, attached to some floating excess fabric on the inside of the jacket arm.
Care must be taken to ensure that the wires are properly removed from the arm.
If the wire loops around the lining, this will squeeze the opening through the arm, making it difficult for the jacket to wear and use.
I tried labeling the wires so I could trace back to which group the wires belong to, but I didn\'t get much success.
I recommend testing the laser diode with a CR2032 battery to ensure that the laser diode still works after installation and connection.
Once all laser diodes are connected to their respective wires, it\'s time to start the final assembly.
We need to pause and make sure everything is OK before proceeding.
Until then, we can only really understand whether things work by doing continuity or testing individual components.
This will be a complete \"integration test\" that will test almost the entire system before it is fully installed.
Testing is not perfect, but helps to find some common mistakes in the early days.
Of course, the final test is whether it works after full assembly.
The test here is designed to ensure that we are sure that the system is working well enough to proceed to the next step.
Pick a handy backup laser diode from the heap.
Take a CR2032 battery and use it to ensure that the laser diode works properly by pressing the exposed lead of the laser diode to the top and bottom of the battery.
The red line should be at the \"top\" of CR2032 \"(
Positive Leadership)
The Wire in black or blue should be at the bottom (negative)
The end of the battery.
The laser diode should emit a weak light.
Make a temporary test cable consisting of JST 2.
5 2-pin male head with two disconnected wires at the end.
Peel off the ends of these two lines and take out the spare laser diode.
The exposed leads at the head cable stripping end will be used to test the laser diodes on each connection in the PCA9685 splitter board.
Make sure the Arduino Nano and other electronic devices are powered on.
After turning on the power, the LED on the Arduino Nano and the various LEDs on the BEC and PCA9685 modules should be displayed to indicate that they are working.
Connect JST 2.
The 5 2 needles and wires created above go to the output head on the PWM drive splitter board.
Connect the laser diode to the exposed wire and confirm that it is supplying power.
The default mode of the Arduino Nano should be \"flashing\", so the laser diode should go through a cycle of increasing power and then dimming.
Gently swing the laser diode connection to ensure that there is no loose connection that will result in a power outage.
Make sure they are working properly with each connection.
Intermittent failures here are likely to pop up on the road ahead.
Putting electronics into clothing and placing them around provides ample opportunities for intermittent failures in stable test and development environments, making them permanent failures in real-world environments.
Solve the problem at this stage, even if it is intermittent or difficult to reproduce, it will save heartache when disassembly and debugging become more difficult.
If there is any problem, see the \"common errors\" section that helps track the problem.
Wiring the cables in the sheath and providing structural support help with wear and wear resistance.
All wires that are not directly welded to the prototype
The board ran aground.
Except for some battery wiring, all the wires are from the 25 ad hoc working group.
Put wires into the wire cover where possible to make sure they don\'t wrap around.
All heads are JST 2 except for direct connection to the laser.
5mm, lock, orientation.
As mentioned earlier, locking is necessary in order to prevent strain or movement caused by disconnection.
A safety check is provided in the direction to ensure that no shorts or incorrect connections are present.
Multi-layer strain elimination is provided to minimize the possibility of wire wear or solder break.
The electronic housing has a strain relief bracket for crossing the cable to provide strain relief from the welded connector.
The sheath is equipped with a cable clamp for guiding the cable and providing support.
The laser diode housing provides strain relief for the laser diode.
Even with all strain relief and cable wiring, it is possible to tear the wire or disconnect it.
When wearing a jacket, be careful not to grab the finger on the wire through the lining.
The jacket is flexible enough to wear and dance, but too uncoordinated or too high an impact can cause damage.
The power supply of the regulator needs to be connected to the Arduino and PWM controller.
The Arduino Nano also needs to communicate with the PWM driver.
Extension cords are required for the joystick and microphone.
The laser diode power supply wiring is 4 groups 2-pin JST 2.
5mm male connector.
At least one length should be 75 cm and the rest in the range of 20 cm.
The Arduino Nano power cord is a short 20 cm cable with a length of 2-pin JST 2.
5mm male connector.
The correct PWM controller also needs a short 20 cm 2-pin JST 2.
5mm male connector cable.
The length of the joystick connector is about 50 cm of the five-wire JST 2.
5mm double head.
The length of the microphone connector is about 50 cm of the 3pin JST 2.
5mm double head.
The PWM controller requires two 6-wire cables, one about 20 cm long and the other about 75 cm long.
Each of them has the end of the 6-pin male JST 2. 5mm headers.
All titles are directed and locked.
All cables should be made from 25 ad hoc working group stranded wires.
The solid core wire is too hard to limit not only movement, but also the possibility of wear and tear and fracture.
Stranded wires are easier to move and more suitable to provide power and communication between components that are not on the same prototypeboard.
The PWM driver, together with other electronic components such as a power converter and Arduino Nano, is installed in a laser-cut Electronic housing consisting of two laser-cut boards with plastic pipes in the middle for spacing.
The electronic housing is connected with various M3 screws.
The M3 screw provides double work, acts as a spacer for the two housing panels and supports the prototypeboard.
The other PWM driver will be located closer to the other arm and will have its own case.
Please make sure all wires are connected before closing the electronic case.
This means all laser diode connections to the microphone, joystick, power cord, I2C cable and left arm are connected.
It is best to do a trial run of all the electronic devices connected to the laser diode to ensure that everything is OK before the electronic housing is closed and installed in the housing.
Once the electronic housing shell bolts are connected together, the wire should be wound around the strain relief device at the top of the housing.
This is necessary because the stress generated by normal motion will wear the connector on the motherboard and may cause loose connections, power outages and other failures.
The clip should be tightened so that it can withstand a decent yank from The Wire.
Ultimately, blue loctite should be installed on all bolts that need to be kept in place.
Unless there is enough confidence to have the jacket ready to wear, this should not be done because the NUT is difficult to fall off after using loctite.
Place the electronic case between the jacket shell and the jacket lining.
Use the Velcro tie belt to ensure the electronic case is firmly in place.
Feed the microphone to a place where it can be exposed to the sound and pierce a hole if needed.
The joystick can be fed through the arm or can be kept on the inside of the jacket according to preference.
The lining is cut off using a nylon buckle or a snap.
Once all the parts are in place, try putting on the jacket to make sure it works.
The connection should have the elasticity of moderate use, but a little care should be taken to ensure that the components are not worn out or strain-free.
If there is any fault with the whole system or a single laser diode, please handle it one by one until everything is OK.
Please see the section \"common errors\" to solve some of the problems I am prone.
Once all the problems are solved, put it on!
I think it is worth mentioning that there are some major points of interest.
Here\'s a list with no specific order: for anyone trying this project, find out what you\'re doing.
I have enough risk affinity and don\'t mind danger, but for those who may be more risk averse, understand that LiPo batteries involved in this project can cause serious physical damage.
The LiPo battery has enough power to catch fire, explode, otherwise it can cause serious physical damage.
I personally think this technology is safe enough to use (
I\'m glad to put on my jacket)
But shorts can cause a fire, water exposure can cause shorts or other potentially dangerous situations, and a punch or break in the battery can cause serious physical damage.
Before I started using the fuse as a safety measure, my wire exploded due to a short circuit of the wire and the jacket was on fire (
Only in development, never really use them for activities).
Do your research to make sure you understand the risks involved and how satisfied you are with the risks.
Here is a short list of the main drawbacks of what I think my approach is and what I will do differently: things are on fire: a potential cause may be that the wires are heating and on fire, or flammable materials around the fire.
Make sure to install a fuse on the battery so that the fuse will explode in a short period of time, not a wire or other electronic product.
Test continuity to track short positions.
Make sure all solder joints and areas are clean.
Things don\'t power up: this can be caused by a short or broken power cord.
Another possible source is bad regulators or low battery power.
Best practice is to make sure the battery is fully charged and check if the fully charged battery can solve the problem before the failure
Further filming
To track where the error is, consider the following steps: Most welding is essentially power management and make sure that the correct power supply and ground rails reach where they need to go.
This means that the most common error is a short or broken power cord (
At least in my experience I found this out).
If the power outage still causes confusion, try to disconnect all connections and then connect the components step by step until the failure occurs.
For example, disconnect the power distribution board from other electronic devices and make sure that the isolated regulator power supply is correct.
Once it is confirmed that it is working properly, just add the Arduino Nano breakout and then add a single PCA9685 PWM module breakout etc.
Intermittent power-on: in order to rule out the obvious situation, make sure the battery is fully charged to rule out the possibility of empty batteries.
If the intermittent fault disappears when it is full of batteries, it may mean that the electronics are \"browsed\" and it is easy to fix by replenishing the battery.
If charging the battery does not solve the problem, it may be one of the more frustrating problems, and it is difficult to track and debug because the problem is often difficult to reproduce.
In my experience, the most likely cause is poor welding.
Deformation of the prototype-
Excessive strain on the board or connector can cause the solder joints to weaken or crack.
In some directions, there is physical contact that creates the illusion of a normal working circuit, but if the stress is applied, the joint is out of contact and the component stops working or the overall power is cut off.
If this can be reproduced on a \"benchmark\" then this can give clues as to where the bad joint is.
Generally, it is a good practice to check the welding connections to make sure they look good.
This means ensuring that there are enough solder joints on the joint and that the solder joints are filled throughout the hole.
I also found some slight swings to help track weak connections.
Finally, an electronic device needs to be installed, strain relief needs to be provided, or this type of failure will almost certainly occur, but even if the pressure on the circuit is very small, sometimes loose connection can cause intermittent failure, follow up as soon as possible to prevent headaches later.
Arduino constantly resets: In my experience, this is most likely an intermittent power supply, so the above strategy for finding loose or bad connections should be used.
In rare cases, electrical noise can sometimes cause other problems in Arduino and peripheral electronics.
Making sure the power supply is isolated by their own regulator is a good start, but in the worst case it is possible to connect the ferrite beads in the chosen position to try to mitigate the noise.
If the fault can be reproduced continuously, this can be a good indication of what the underlying cause is.
In addition, make sure the battery is fully charged to rule out the possibility of empty batteries.
The microphone/joystick is not working: the symptom is that the joystick does nothing (
For example, mode cannot be changed \")
The graphic EQ mode does not display anything.
The first thing to check is whether the microphone or joystick is connected at both ends.
That is, check if the cable is connected to the input device and if the other end of the cable is connected to the Arduino breakout.
If they are already connected, make sure the wiring is done correctly to make sure that the wires at one end of the cable match the wires entering the Arduino.
Further investigation is required if the obvious trouble shooting technique does not work.
For the joystick, connect the Arduino to the computer and turn on debugging.
There should be output of the joystick state and make sure it is read from the joystick.
If the Arduino still doesn\'t seem to see the joystick, make sure the cable and connection are continuous.
Sometimes, the joystick fails or is not good in the worst case, using the Arduino alone to try to read from the analog pin connected to one of the joystick axes to determine whether the connection failed or the Joystick failed.
For the microphone, similar to the above operation.
Check the continuity of the cable and ensure the continuity of the test to test whether the input pin is entered into the correct Arduino pin and whether the power supply is provided to the microphone module.
The debug output of the Arduino Nano should also have a microphone output, so you can see if there is anything that is being read.
The graphic EQ has a dynamic volume in the software to make sure it tries to be insensitive to the volume difference and still produces output, but it has limited functionality.
Sometimes, fiddling with the microphone sound meter can better create a more satisfying lighting performance.
The microphone is faulty or sometimes bad, so a simple test is to try to replace and see if the problem can be solved.
If things still don\'t work, isolate the test microphone with the Arduino that is connected to read.
Some laser diodes don\'t work: if the project is so large, it will fail.
A single component may fail due to loose connection, disconnection of connection, burning of electronic equipment or other problems.
For laser diodes, it is better to keep some spare ones so that they can be easily replaced if they do fail for any reason.
I found it easy to remove non
Working laser diodes and replacing them completely instead of repairing damaged laser diodes.
When tracking a single laser diode failure, make sure to test the laser diode to confirm that it is not working or intermittent.
If the replacement laser diode still does not work properly, this may cause poor cable connection, so testing the continuity of the cable is a good step in the next step.
If the cable is a problem, please replace that part of it.
Sometimes, the cable on the arm is tight and the connection is interrupted by using the stress of normal motion.
Because the laser diode is connected by a small JST 1.
25mm connector, the connector should be disconnected instead of breaking the wire or cracking the shell.
Can be reconnected in this case
By re-
Connect the laser diode to the cable.
If the laser diode connection is continuously disconnected, it is better to choose a different connection, or position the cable differently, weld the extension cord on it, or exchange the connection with the adjacent laser diode, so, normal movement does not put too much pressure on the connection.
This idea has existed for more than ten years (
As of this article).
As far as I know, artist wei zhishi is the original artist who came up with this idea.
It has been used by other celebrities such as porno and Rihanna.
I decided to build it myself because I thought the idea was interesting and I didn\'t see the \"digital\" version around me, nor any source, schematic or architectural instructions.
All source code is available under the free/libre license (
AGPL, GPL, MIT, or CC0).
Where appropriate, all design documents are available under the free/library license (CC-BY, CC-BY-SA or CC0).
The instructions themselves are available under the CC0 license.
If appropriate, feel free to modify, improve or use any of the assets described here.
No credit is necessary. Happy Hacking!
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