According to the vertical bar segmentation of the design of the skirt, now experience the principle of division.
Vertical lines divided skirt is what we usually say many dresses.
Such as the four pieces of skirt, six pieces of dress, eight piece skirt, ten piece of dress, and so on, also can use singular integral, such as three skirts, five pills skirts, seven pieces of skirt, and so on.
Both pieces of segmentation, according to the principle of modelling as a balanced division at the same time, to waist-hip differential quantity (
Is evenly distributed in the line.
In addition, before the formal pattern design, on the way of operation, especially in the pattern design is not very good at the beginners, to grasp such a step: first of all, no matter how much on the production figure reflects the structure of the complex, as long as the basic pattern, according to the production figure shows the surface structure of line segmentation, will initially determine the answer;
Then, as we in the line and pleating structure;
Finally, the basic pattern is designed according to the template of the completion of the separate pattern is made.
This the three-step pattern: basic segmentation image, figure and pattern separation figure pattern processing.
Case I: four pieces of dress design.
According to the principle of balance of segmentation, should be in line before and after the center line and two side sewn, so before and after the direct use of basic pattern center line and side seam line.
This segmentation is obviously make skirt more balance, waist-hip differential uniform distribution.
Mapping method: put the film before and after each province province, pointed down to hip line and then move into A skirt, and will move the province before and after the anchor line repair become type A skirt structure.
Before and after half assigned to another province before and after the center line of line, the quantity of the rest of the provinces were assigned to two side seam, make all provinces traffic and people in the line.
Seamline upwards of 3 cm (
Or the province increased put half of the amount)
And side seam and half province, note before and after the midline line and one province, only don't increase the skirt, due to the fact that before and after the type A skirt to place should not be raised.
The sum of skirt and amount to grasp between type A dress and skirt.
Final design net waist waist head, set in the upper midline opening lap.
Type A dress (
The leg due to turn province increases the amount of pendulum activity space)
Don't need the design right.
In track and field sports clothes split in the skirt side seam line, and before and after by the additional amount of skirt is what relation?
The premise is that the increased amount of skirt, should present A type profile characteristics between dress and skirt, but according to the characteristics of human marrow measure (
Positive, narrow side wide cross-section oval)
, the modelling of dresses is not pursue is the frustum of a cone body, but the elliptical machine body.
The elliptical machine body is the part of the flat is the front and rear, uplift, the more obvious the closer side of the body.
In this sense, the more close to the line in the midline in the area of the before and after the increase the less amount of skirt, instead near the side seam line, increase the quantity is big.
Characteristics and its corresponding waist line, too, is close to the front and back waist line curvature in the midline in the area of the small and large curvature on both sides of the waist line.
Of course, this kind of structure is more suitable for the fit skirt shape processing.
Example 3: eight pieces of dress design.
Eight pieces of skirt of segmentation by a side seam, before and after each four pieces.
Allocation of time, will be a province and a quarter of people in line, the other half of a province, and front line after line, the other provinces as revised seamline province.
Each line of the skirt up degree distribution, should take the largest rise in side seam, a quarter next in line, before and after the center line is zero.
Theoretically skirt vertical segmentation, which can be divided indefinitely, and the more integral unit model, the better.
But for the actual production, material properties and the structure itself are not necessary, the key is the designer to master the regular pattern of province and hem volume distribution.
From rui-pu liu 'apparel pattern design principle and technology
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